![]() There are other kinds of fly cutters that look like a big round saucer with carbide inserts underneath. The Superfly can fly cut a 3" wide swath, while the Suburban tool can go out to 9" or so, I think. Typically, they require far less horsepower to use vs a face mill because they only use one insert. See the Suburban Tool fly cutter and Tormach Superfly for examples. They can hog material and finish very nicely but they are more costly to purchase and use. More modern fly cutters use inserted carbide bars and in my opinion, they are superior to HSS and brazed tooling. HSS will finish better but cannot handle big cuts. Brazed bits as supplied do not work well you need to sharpen the edges and put a nose radius on it before it will finish decently. ![]() Both will work but the carbide tool will require higher speeds to work well and you need to use a grade that can handle interrupted cuts, probably C2. Your fly cutter is intended to work with a left hand HSS or brazed carbide tool bit. Depending on the dimensions, I will often bring the work piece to final outside dimensions with a fly cutter so I will both rough and finish with that tool. In fact, almost every milling project that requires squaring a work piece will see the flycutter at least once. At some point it is not worth making them at the cost you can buy them for, unless you just want the project. I have also picked up at least a half dozen more larger fly cutters in tool lots for dirt cheap, and they all work fine as well. OTOH, when I got into this hobby, I bought a set of five fly cutters made in India for under $30 and they have worked just fine. Fly cutters are not usually great for hogging metal.įly cutters are pretty easy to make, and if you copy a design in common usage it will probably work quite well for you. I have not even mentioned what metal it is you are working with, if there is any looseness in the machine and spindle, and what you are trying to achieve. It is impossible to tell you exactly what to do because of all the variables. Will it fit in a collet or will it need to be in a end mill holder? End mill holders are stiff, but the increased stickout still will cause more loading of the spindle bearings and less rigidity overall. I cannot accurately see the diameter and shank size of the tool in the photos. Start very conservative, increase feeds/speeds/diameter gradually, and listen for the mill and/or cutter complaining, and back off if it is not going well. As the cutter is configured in the photos, it would probably be fine with light cuts. ![]() You definitely do not want that to happen. At some point the clamping screws will not contain the loads and will loosen. With light cuts the radius of the cutter can be increased, to a point. Fly cutters are used with heavier cuts to remove metal and with lighter cuts looking for a nice surface finish.
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